Watering and feeding without science

Feeding Anthuriums the Simple Way

When it comes to feeding my Anthuriums, I like to keep it simple. No heavy science, no complicated formulas just a straightforward routine that keeps my plants happy, healthy, and thriving. Here’s one of the ways I feed my collection.

 

The Starting Point: Water

I begin with filtered water that runs through an inline filter. I use a food-grade 5-gallon black bucket, but only fill it with 4 gallons. There’s a mark scratched inside the bucket at the 4-gallon line, which makes quick nutrient measurements easy.

Building the Mix

I always start with Cal-Mag, mixing it thoroughly with a cordless drill fitted with a stainless-steel paint mixer. This ensures everything blends evenly. From there, I add Full Power (my fulvic acid), which I consider essential for my Anthuriums.

Next comes the base nutrient: Tezula 13-3-15 (Green Care). Depending on what my plants need, I’ll use anywhere from 2 to 4 scoops. Sometimes I go with a lighter, half-strength feed to let them relax a little.

Once a month, I run an enzymatic flush to clear out salt buildup. This step is crucial it protects root health and prevents long-term issues that salt accumulation can cause.

The Additives

The next piece is a silicone additive. It’s strong, so I use it sparingly. Each time I add something new, I let the drill mixer run for a full minute. This gives the salts and additives time to dissolve properly.

Dialing in pH and Temperature

My filtered tap water starts out around pH 6.8–7.0. After mixing everything in, it drops naturally to 6.1–6.3. I then use pH Down to bring it into the sweet spot: 5.8 (though I’ll accept anywhere between 5.6–5.8). I pH because consistency is key to growth.

Water temperature is another key detail. I keep it between 50°F and 68°F. Anything warmer can mess with nutrient stability, and anything colder risks shocking the roots.

Feeding Time

Once the mix is ready, I fill my self-watering pots. Every three months, I clean those pots with hydrogen peroxide to keep things fresh and disease-free.

When it comes to seedlings, I take a more hands-on approach. I use a 50cc syringe to feed them individually. It might sound over the top, but it allows me to control exactly how much each plant gets—and I love seeing how they respond.

If I’m away for a few days, I’ll fill the trays with about a quarter inch of nutrient water so the plants don’t dry out.

Boosting the Medium

About once a month, I mix AZOS with pH-balanced water (5.8) to refresh the beneficial bacteria in the medium. For larger seedlings, I use 3D-printed self-watering pots with wicks. This keeps moisture consistent, encourages stronger growth, and helps prevent oddball leaf development.

Bigger Plants, Bigger Buckets

For large Anthuriums, I scale up to 3-gallon food-grade buckets with basket net inserts. I keep the medium chunky to avoid soggy roots, and I run a wick about a quarter way up the pot. This system makes the plants more drought-tolerant, improves leaf strength, and ensures a steady flow of water and nutrients.

Only a few of my Anthuriums have resisted the self-watering setup—and honestly, that’s usually on me for not keeping up with feeding. For most, the transition to self-watering is smooth once the roots are well-established.

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This is the feeding style that works for me. It’s not about overcomplicating the process—it’s about creating consistency, paying attention to the plants, and finding joy in the routine. After all, running around with a measuring cup and a 50cc syringe might not be necessary, but it’s what I love to do.